Used guitar inspection checklist

This checklist supports the guide How to buy a used guitar without getting burned.

Use this checklist before you buy any used guitar. It is written to catch the problems that cost real money and create real regret. Cosmetic wear is last. Function and structure come first.

If a seller cannot answer these questions clearly, assume you are buying blind and price it accordingly.

Quick pass in 60 seconds

Before you get emotionally attached, verify these five things.

• Truss rod works and can move the neck

• Neck is not twisted

• Frets are not worn out in the first positions

• Electronics work with no signal cutting out

• Tuning stability is normal for the type of bridge on the guitar

If any of these are unknown, you are not ready to buy yet.

Neck and truss rod

This is the most important system on the instrument. A healthy neck makes most other repairs worth doing. A compromised neck makes many guitars a bad deal.

What to verify

• Truss rod adjusts in both directions and is not maxed out

• Neck relief can be set normally under string tension

• Neck is not twisted, especially from bass side to treble side

• No cracks at the nut, first fret area, or headstock that move under tension

• No separation at the neck joint on set-neck guitars

Questions to ask

• Does the truss rod turn smoothly both ways

• How much adjustment is left before it bottoms out

• Is the neck straight when sighted down both edges

• Any repaired headstock or neck cracks

Walk-away triggers

• Truss rod frozen, broken, or already maxed out

• Visible neck twist

• Structural cracks that flex or grow under tension

Frets and fingerboard

Fret wear is normal on used guitars. The only question is whether it is mild, manageable, or expensive.

What to look for

• Deep grooves under the plain strings in the first five frets

• Flat, wide fret crowns that indicate heavy wear

• High frets or uneven frets that cause isolated buzzing

• Sharp fret ends from dryness or poor finishing

• Lifting frets or gaps at the fret ends

Quick playing checks

• Play every fret on the high E and B strings from open to the 12th fret

• Listen for choking during bends around frets 10 to 15

• Check for sitar-like buzzing that follows you up the neck

Questions to ask

• Has it been leveled and crowned before

• Any refret work

• Any persistent buzz that a setup did not fix

Pricing reality

• Light wear is normal

• Moderate wear can often be addressed with leveling if there is height left

• Heavy wear often means refret or partial refret money

Hardware and tuning stability

Hardware problems are often hidden in listings because sellers do not notice them until the guitar is under real use.

What to verify

• Tuners feel smooth, hold tension, and do not slip

• Bridge saddles are intact, not stripped, and adjust normally

• Strap buttons are secure with no wallowed-out holes

• Output jack is tight and does not cut out when moved

• No missing screws or improvised hardware

Tuning stability checks

• Tune up, play hard for 60 seconds, then check tuning

• Bend the G string aggressively and re-check

• If it has a tremolo, use it lightly and re-check

If the guitar is a Floyd Rose or locking tremolo guitar, do not assume instability is a simple setup issue. That system has specific wear points and failure modes, and they matter.

Electronics

A used guitar should function cleanly at normal playing volume without crackling, cutting out, or unpredictable behavior.

What to test

• All pickup selector positions work reliably

• Volume and tone knobs move smoothly and do not cut out

• No intermittent signal when the cable is moved

• No loud pops when switching pickups or touching controls

Questions to ask

• Any replaced pickups, pots, switch, or wiring

• Any known intermittent issues

• Any prior wiring modifications

Red flag language

• Just needs contact cleaner

• Works most of the time

• Probably the cable

Those statements often mean a real fault that will return.

Body, structural areas, and finish

Cosmetic wear is normal. Structural damage is not. Learn the difference.

What is usually fine

• Dings, chips, buckle rash

• Light finish checking on older guitars

• Normal pick wear

What deserves scrutiny

• Cracks that cross wood grain

• Neck pocket cracks on bolt-on guitars that spread or move

• Bridge post or tailpiece stud cracks

• Headstock cracks or repaired breaks

• Swelling, soft spots, or moisture damage

Questions to ask

• Any repairs

• Any cracks that have been glued

• Any parts that were re-drilled or relocated

Setup claims and what they mean

A setup is not a repair. A setup is an adjustment of a healthy system.

When a seller says it was recently set up, you still need to verify:

• The neck is healthy

• The frets have enough life

• The nut is cut correctly

• The hardware is not worn out

Recent setup does not guarantee any of those.

The safest buying move

If you are not able to inspect a guitar in person, the safest move is to buy from a seller who documents function clearly and has a reputation for accurate descriptions.

If you want to avoid guessing, buy from a shop or seller that evaluates guitars under string tension, plays them, and checks the exact failure points listed above before listing them.

Where to go next

If you are still unsure after this checklist, read these next.

What photos never tell you
Red flags and deal breakers
Questions to ask any seller
When a setup claim is meaningless

If the guitar has a locking tremolo, go straight to the Floyd Rose buyer guide before you buy.